The road to the Oscars is rarely smooth, but for Frédérique Arguello, head of the hair department on The Substance, it's been a nightmare. Days before Hollywood's biggest night, Arguello has gone public with claims that her assistant, Marilyne Scarselli, was unjustly nominated for an Oscar in her place. The controversy has sparked a heated debate about credit, recognition, and the politics of awards season.
The Heart of the Controversy
Arguello, who worked on The Substance for five months, designed the film's intricate hairstyles, including the dramatic transformations of lead actress Demi Moore. However, due to family and health reasons, she left the production three weeks before filming wrapped, leaving Scarselli to oversee the final stages. Despite her extensive contributions, Arguello was excluded from the Oscar nomination for Achievement in Makeup and Hairstyling, with Scarselli taking her spot alongside special makeup effects designer Pierre Olivier Persin and key makeup artist Stéphanie Guillon.
Arguello's frustration is palpable. “I've got all the proofs that I was not only the hair designer, but I'm the one who was the key hair for five months,” she told Deadline. Scarselli, however, offers a different narrative, claiming she took over after Arguello made a critical error with Moore's wig, leading to her dismissal from the set.
Awards Season Confusion
The controversy is further muddied by conflicting credits at other awards ceremonies. At the Critics Choice Awards, Arguello was recognized alongside Guillon and Persin, while at the BAFTAs, Scarselli was included in the winning trio. This inconsistency has left many questioning the Academy's decision-making process.
Director Coralie Fargeat reportedly sent a letter to the Academy advocating for Arguello's inclusion, but the Academy's strict three-person nomination limit left no room for compromise. “The Oscars limit nominations to three names,” a Mubi spokesperson explained, “and after their determination process, they decided to honor the work of Pierre, Stéphanie, and Marilyne.”
The Bigger Picture: Credit Where Credit's Due
This isn't just about one nomination—it's about the often-overlooked contributions of below-the-line workers in film. Arguello's case highlights the challenges faced by artists whose work is essential to a film's success but often goes unrecognized. As the Oscars approach, the question remains: who truly deserves the credit for The Substance's stunning hair and makeup?
The controversy surrounding The Substance's Oscar nomination is a stark reminder of the complexities of filmmaking and the politics of awards season. While Marilyne Scarselli's contributions shouldn't be dismissed, Frédérique Arguello's extensive work on the film's hairstyles clearly warrants recognition. This situation raises important questions about how credit is allocated in collaborative art forms like film. Should the Academy reconsider its nomination limits to better reflect the contributions of all key players? Or is this simply an unavoidable consequence of a competitive industry?
As we await the Oscars, one thing is certain: this drama has added an unexpected layer of intrigue to an already nail-biting awards season. What do you think—should Arguello have been nominated, or was the Academy's decision justified?
